The trip begins - off to Croatia!
By Karel Kosman,
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Working while travelling:
Dream
of working while travelling
The
trip begins - off to Croatia!
Traveling
through Croatia
Arriving
to Montenegro
Staying
in Stoliv, Montenegro
Well, it took a lot longer to complete the caravan truck
than I originally expected, but it finally came. Not having
work for a long time, spending most of my time trying to
get the truck together, and most of my money on it as well,
I was quickly running out of cash, so my departure had to
depend on finding some fellow travelers who could pitch
in on gas.
 |
In Prague ready to travel
and head out! |
And that turned out to be my brother and sister, who were
living in Prague at that time and who were also planning
their departure, my sister to New York and my brother to
Argentina. So we decided they would kick off my travels
with me, destination Croatia, before we would all split
in our different directions around the globe. So split to
Split we did. Seven days on the road, where they would fly
back to Prague from Split, today.

The first leg was a long and gruelling one, pitching into
a highway sticker so that we could barrel down to the middle
of Hungary, lake Batalon, by the evening of the first day.
Running out of cash, I decided I would hasten things and
moved out of my flat actually one month before my departure.
I spent the last 30 days saying goodbye to close friends,
driving out to their neighbourhoods to stumble drunk to
my bed parked in a convenient location. The place I used
to play squash at was kind enough to let me shower there
for a few cents, or friends would be tolerant, or I would
just be stinky, which became rather uncomfortable considering
the humid spell which hit Prague during the last few weeks.
I still did not get my windows installed on my back doors,
so I learned to keep them locked but open the slightest,
with the front windows slightly opened and the alarm system
on, in the hopes of creating some slight draft and make
the evening beareable. My solar panels were not installed
yet either, so I spent many of my working days in the pub,
charging all my batteries in the process. Checking my email
in bed and doing basic computer work, I would wait until
8am when the stores and Baumax would open so that I could
continue running errands and work on the truck in preparation
for my departure.
 |
The famous Pitkovice lakes |
So it was all rather hectic before leaving, managed to
put together with my brother the solar panels and electrical
system on the last day, and left with the truck mostly completed.
The rest could be completed once on the road.

Before crossing into Slovakia, I remembered to call my
voicemail to change my message, instructing everyone that
I will no longer be picking up the phone, so communication
by sms and email only, and entered Hungary feeling that
my dreams have finally come true.
Now
on day seven and by the beautiful beach in Croatia, I
still feel that I may be on a vacation and that I will
eventually head back to Prague to hit the 9 to 5, but
this feeling will hopefully wear off over time and I will
learn to adjust to my new lifestyle.
After all, this plan was seven years in the making, much
longer than I hoped, and the constant delays the last
two years (I had my first going away party almost a full
year before actually departing) forced me to ignore the
situation and just keep marching forward, practically
losing hope that I may leave at all.
 |
The amazing colour of
the lakes truly made you wanna jump in, but not
allowed. :o( |
We
couldn’t find the autocamp that my sister found on a map
of lake Batalon, so we spent our first night roughing it,
much to her dismay, as I later found that a daily hot shower
was very high on her agenda. We parked in a free parking
lot and it was pleasant to wake up early the next day by
a beach, which we subsequently utilised right away to clean
up before heading to our next destination – Pitkovice Lakes
in Croatia.


Arriving to the Croatian border and now officially leaving
the EU, we sailed through without a problem and gave the
big high five for accomplishing the big goal. But it turns
out that the border control we just crossed was actually
a Hungarian control of those departing from their country.
Having thought we successfully entered Croatia, I removed
the towel from the massive lcd panel on the dashboard showing
our GPS coordinates on the map, and took my sandals off,
as I usually like to drive.
 |
As usual, I like to go
overboard on everything. On photo, camped in lake
Batallion Hungary, complete with altitude meter, speedometer,
compass and other shit. |
I rolled past the Croatian border guards, who were all
sitting in a row gabbing away, their legs dangling and swinging
in a relaxed nature. I cruised slowly by not really knowing
what they were doing there, when they hollered me to stop,
a bit alarmed that I was actually thinking of continuing.
I gestured that I thought the border crossing was back there.
The main dude said, "What is this, a strip tease?",
gesturing by tugging at his own shirt. I learned that it
was illegal to drive without a shirt in Croatia. They wanted
to see the inside of my truck, so I jumped outside to open
it, forgetting about my sandals, and overheard the word
"bos", meaning "barefoot" in Czech (the
two languages are rather similar). I opened the side door
and out fell an empty plastic bottle, which subsequently
blew out of my reach as I ran after it without my shoes
on. So the important border crossing of my big dream turned
out to be a bit of a blunder, but the guards remained rather
relaxed and wished me a pleasant journey.
 |
A lot of war bombarded
buildings along the way. |
My sister decided on some "shortcut", which took
us on some rather rickety rackety road grazing the border
of Bosnia. We made a wrong turn at some point and it turned
out to be a long cut instead. After driving several hours
along this pot holed dirt road at about 30km an hour, and
just before getting next to the Bosnian border crossing
where we made the wrong turn, we came upon a rather horrific
looking bridge. We really wondered whether it would hold
the four tons of Bobka and my sister and brother decided
the last place they wanted to be was inside, so they both
got out. I walked across and inspected the bridge, covered
with broken wooden planks for the tires but with a warning
to stay away from one particular weak point. I wasn’t about
to turn around and go back the same way, so I decided to
barrel it across and the piggie managed to fly over it without
any major concern.
 |
The piggie flies and lands
safely on the other side. |
After our rather long and slow cut, we arrived quite late
to the lakes, and couldn’t even find them. Turns out there
is no road access to them, so we drove around for a while
and decided to park (for free, again) by what we determined
the next day to be a post office. The next day I walked
around for half an hour trying to figure out where to go,
and we headed back to an autocamp about 6 km before the
lakes (by this point, my sister was rather adamant about
getting a hot shower).
 |
A bit concerned if piggie
can make it up and down that big mountain range before
hitting the coast. |
We drove into the camp but decided it wasn’t exciting enough
for us. I told the reception we decided we didn’t want to
stay there, but asked if it was okay if we could have a
meal in their restaurant. They agreed, so we grabbed our
backpacks, had a long shower for free, bought a couple of
beers in the pub, stocked up on food from the camp’s grocery
store, stocked up on free maps and pamphlets of Croatia
from the tourist bureau, and had a nice cheap meal outside.
I studied a map of the lakes and decided I will try to
drive as close as possible to the center of them and walk
from there. We passed the turn off I wanted but after realising
we were practically out of gas and remembering that gas
stations can be few and far between in Croatia, we went
on a long excursion in search of fuel. We completed a big
loop, tanked up, and headed back to the lakes. Before getting
to my turn off, we decided to take the standard tourist
entrance and just get it over with, but were disappointed
to learn that it was rather expensive. Will have to be more
careful in the future.
A
lot of electrical posts along the way had man made supports
on them for storks. Perhaps they believed it would bring
them lots of babies? |
The lakes were fantastic and deserve much more than the
two hours we afforded it, and we were off to hit the coast.
Crossed a big mountain range and finally landed on the water.
Snaked along the shoreline till around 8pm, when we started
hunting out an ideal camping spot.
 |
Made it over the ridge
and now going back down. |
Was warned many times that the police are rather watchful
of people trying to park for free along the coast, so we
decided to try an autocamp, and make sure Sonya had a warm
shower.

It was a nice quaint place, small, and we
shared it with a family visiting down from Poland. My selling
point was the diving board into the ocean. Had a seafood
meal in the local restaurant, a swim the next morning, and
off it was again the next day. Now we could take smaller
road trips and enjoy the beach more.
We decided to spend the next evening somewhere around Split.
 |
The first autocamp was
the only place we felt safe enough to sleep with the
back doors wide open and facing the ocean, my favourite
way. Great way to lie on back and work with laptop
on belly. A little cottage on wheels, with panoramic
view, no? |
Driving through Simberik, Sonya mentioned that it had a
lot of historical sites on UNESCO, so decided we’d take
a break from driving a bit and go for a walk around the
town. We struggled to find some parking space until, pretty
well in the very center of the tourist district and at a
busy section, Bobka decided to stop running. I started it
again, but it died right away, after which there was no
power at all.
 |
Is it possible that my
little piggie needs to be towed?? |
The alarm system was still working, but for some reason
no power was entering the truck itself. Not even the blinkers
were working, so I dug ferociously for ten minutes looking
for the new red triangle while cars honked angrily all around
us. The triangle settled them down a bit, so I spent the
next few minutes frantically trying to figure out what was
wrong. I took out my seat, grabbed my volt meter and tested
the batteries under the driver’s chair. Opened the hood
and started rattling with any wire I could find, but the
piggie simply refused to budge. At a loss, I looked out
the window to see a policeman staring a bit dumbfounded
at me. I gestured my finger across my throat, yelled "Kaput"
and then pointed to the beast.

He sauntered over and we agreed he would radio for a tow
truck. The tow truck dude came, decided there was no chance
in hell he was going to pull that thing on his vehicle,
asked me what happened, and decided he was going to pull
me by chain to a friend electrician of his.
Went through about four electricians/mechanics while he
remained on his mobile calling for more, and each one of
them went through the same procedures I did, with no success.
The first one was convinced there was something wrong with
the alternator, informing me that he had the same problem
with his, an almost exact model as mine parked in the back.
This would require getting a spare about 150km away. But
he seemed like he didn’t know what he was talking about,
and none of the other mechanics as well. The fourth one
showed up, and instead of using the voltmeter to test the
batteries, he used jumper cables to short the contacts and
see how big the sparks were. Now I was really getting confident
I was in able hands. Eventually he asked me to remove the
cover over the engine inside the cabin/seating area. I did
that and noticed that a small hose was loose. Turns out
the fuel line fell out, and for some reason an electrical
contact under the steering wheel came loose.
Okay, strange turn of fate I guess. Anyway, got it all
patched up (they had to look at each other a bit when, after
all their hard work, they had to wait for me to sms to my
alarm before the ignition would work), paid about a hundred
buck for the two of them (turns out the tow truck driver
is a part time manager/translator – without which I would
have been in a rather useless situation) and was finally
on the road again, after I got a pat on my back when he
said, "Now you can go to China and back".
Decided to bag Simberik and go straight to Split.


Stopped in a local market to buy fruits and beers, and
ended up at our second autocamp. Muscled for a good spot
with a view of the ocean and proceeded to set up the propane
grill – our first cooked meal. One hour to set up the grill,
outdoor torches and the works, and then another hour and
a half tearing apart the beast looking for a small part
which connects the propane tank to the grill. Eventually
gave up on that and ate raw vegetables. A bit of a disappointment,
but the next day I decided I will try the last place I did
not look in – in the treasure chest under my bed. It was
there indeed, but at least the search gave me an opportunity
to run across a host of things I was looking for previously,
and an opportunity to reorganise everything better.
Oh yah, we actually slept with the backdoors open here
too. Got the torches up and running for the first time.
Nothing like a mobile outdoor patio.
So that the chicken would not go bad, we fired up the grill
afterall, and then headed out to our next location, the
famous Baska Voda.
 |
On the way to Baska Voda |
Picked up some fish and food from a local market along
the way, and arrived at another beautiful beach.

Before that though we perused several autocamps and were
not satisfied with any of them. They were all jam packed
with trailers and none of them were by the water. Driving
down to the water I noticed a sign "25Kn for 24 hour
parking". Sounds good to me.

There was a no camping sign, but we weren’t really camping,
were we? Sonya wanted to sleep under the open sky, so we
decided to cook and sleep on the beach. I noticed a big
set of keys by a car, so I threw them underneath, noticed
the licence plates were from Ontario Canada, and approached
people on the beach looking for the owners. Could not find
them so I informed the bar on the beach that I had found
some keys, in case anyone were to ask. They thought I was
nice for doing that. Eventually the key owners came, thanked
me, and bought us some beers.
We then started dragging the grill, 10L propane bomb and
food preparations to the beach, when the bar people informed
us it is "not ok" to have a fire like this (lit
up our torches as last time), and that we should be careful.

So we had our three candles, two torches, big propane tank
and small camping one for the rice (was running out of drinking
water so used straight ocean water to boil it - perfect
I must say) all lit up by the water, under a slight atmosphere
of fear that we might get caught by the authorities. Meanwhile
people and cars kept streaming by on the nearby roadway.
Slept on the beach and woke up about seven in the morning,
surprised to find it already rather populated, people all
around us and a mob of cleaners approaching us.
We quickly packed up everything, hung around the beach
for a while, and headed to our next destination: Bol – a
place chosen by my sister because it apparently had the
best beach in Croatia.
 |
Piggie on the ferry |
This required a ferry from Split, and a nice panoramic
road to get to the other side of the island from Supetar
. The beach was ok, but the autocamps were not so great,
and none of them were by the ocean, which is a preferred
must for me. Tried a restaurant camp, thinking I could park
out front and use their facilities, but they were closed
and under reconstruction, so the owner suggested what was
later referred to as Blog’s best kept secret (and the manager
did not want me to mention it, so a best kept secret it
shall remain). It was not an autocamp either, so we parked
out front, right in front of the beach.
 |
In the secret garden of
the secret campspot |
In Supetar, we wanted to check out the town and get some
fast food. Once off the ferry, I was heading towards a parking
lot, but they directed us to continue, so we had to drive
around a bit to get into the town. Ended up parking a bit
ways up and having to walk down, but I must say that this
town must have developed before ferries were able to ship
cars over. The streets within them were so narrow they reminded
me of pictures I’ve seen of southern Italy, where everyone
gets around in small scooters. This was basically the same
and I must say it was quite a challenge getting around.
 |
Gotta bring the childhood
pets on travels! |
After the Capcici, and yet another icecream (which was
delicious everywhere and we were having it at least once
a day), we tried to get out of town another way, but it
was all dead ends and I was forced to turn around and get
out the same way I got in, back tracking through all the
narrow roads again. Anyway, Bol is essentially the same,
and the day I was to take my brother and sister to the airport
in Split, I found I could not back out from the beach/camp
because some Hungarian parked his vehicle too far away from
the wall. Even with the cars parked right against the wall,
it was a tight squeeze indeed, without any room to turn
around, and my brother and sister were forced to walk to
the center, take a taxi to the other side of the island
(over an hour with the slow beast) and get to the airport
somehow themselves.

So now I am on my own, stuck in Blog’s best kept secret,
parked right on the beach, and I’ve already arranged with
some of the campers to have a jam session in the evening.
After that I’m officially on my own and perhaps I’ll start
feeling I’ve truly left Prague and finally launched my dream.
We walked up and down the beach, and throughout the camp,
asking everyone if they had Hungarian plates on a Renault,
but no such luck. Hopefully I’ll be able to escape some
time!

In any case, I enjoyed traveling with someone so much
that I decided to start a cheap travel Europe tour guide!

* * *
Working while travelling:
Dream
of working while travelling
The
trip begins - off to Croatia!
Traveling
through Croatia
Arriving
to Montenegro
Staying
in Stoliv, Montenegro
Karel Kosman offers:
His Trip
to Croatia Journal (the original of this article)
Cheap
Travel Europe Tour Guide in Croatia
Croatian
Translation Service
Published - December 2008
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